Сообщения с тегами: bike

Friction Drive Engine Kits

Friction Drive or friction engine is a type of transmission that, instead of a chain and sprockets, uses 2 wheels in the transmission to transfer power to the driving wheels. This kind of transmission is often used on scooters, mainly go-peds, in place of a chain.

An example of this system is in an early Turicum automobile. The Turicum’s friction drive consisted of a flat steel disc coupled directly to the engine. This primary disc subsequently drove a smaller leather covered wheel oriented normal to its surface. Assuming a constant rotational velocity on the primary wheel, the angular velocity on the disc’s surface will increase proportionally to the distance from the center of rotation. Therefore, positioning the smaller wheel at different points along the larger wheel’s surface varies the gear ratio. Furthermore, since there are no limitations beyond the minimum and maximum positions, the gear ratios are infinitely adjustable.

The problem with this type of drive system is that they are not very efficient. Since the output wheel (leather covered wheel) has width, the area of contact is spread across various radii on the primary disc. Consequently, since the angular velocity varies as radius varies, the system must overcome these variances. The compromise is slippage of the leather to metal contact area which creates friction, which in turn converts much of the energy transfer of this system into heat. Heat generation also requires a cooling system to keep the transmission working effectively.
The Lambert automobile motor in the early part of manufacturing moved around on the chassis. It was on the back of the chassis, then in the center, then to the front, and back again to the rear of the automobile. The early motors were built at the Lambert factories of the Buckeye Manufacturing Company and later they were outsourced to other proprietary manufactures.[2]

The Lambert chassis of the high end employed a three point suspension to save driving power by decreasing the lift required of the automobile body because of road surface variations. It saved wear and tear on the automobile body and its parts. The others used ordinary suspension.[3] Sometimes a shaft drive was provided on some models, however most Lambert automobile models were with a chain drive to the rear axle.[2]

The Lambert automobile chassis with the gearless friction drive speed change transmission was the basis for the Lambert automobiles and trucks built from 1906 through 1916. The valve action of the engines were hardened steel cams that were applied to the cam shaft. The cam faces were slightly convex, and worked on hardened rollers, carried in swinging forks, which beared against square ended sliders. The valves were alumimum heads driven to shoulder on riveted steel
There are Friction drive motorized bicycle kits available here Motorized bicycle kit http://www.flmotorbikes.com/apps/webstore/Too see the efficiency and adavantages to you and the environment of a friction drive engine visit Motorized bicycle:http://www.flmotorbikes.com/

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Originally posted 2011-04-26 19:15:50. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

Stop Sign

Yes in the past, I sustain run red lights, yes in the past I deliver run stop lights, and yes I am sure you bequeath do the same. But I plead with you DON’T! Many car drivers in Boston get a identical relaxed sense of when a light is red, I bear seen them blast through many seconds aft the light has turned, they likewise seem to get a hard time reading, as many stop signs are flat out ignored. The cycle riders seem to sustain been infected with the same illness. 50% of the time you wickerwork run a red light and be fine, 40% of the time you wickerwork run a red light and while close stillness be fine, 10% of the time you are relying on the judgment (and brakes) of another world being to economize your living. Do you really absent to put your sprightliness in the hands of masses who can’t even figure out the difference between yellow and red? No you don’t. Stop at that light, hardly do it.
Likewise remember that hardly because the light is green doesn’t mean that you are somehow magically safe. Mass do dumb shit all the time, making left hand turns when they are not supposed to, making rightfield hand turns without signaling, speeding, pulling out of spots backwards without looking, making u-turns, etc etc. In a really real sense it doesn’t matter if you “had the green” or were legally “right”, if you get in a fight with a car you are always going to lose. Pay attention, and always keep your eyes on the road at intersections. (and every

Originally posted 2010-11-11 15:47:25. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

Locking Up

Boston has two things that make locking up your cycle interesting. One, the weather, and two cycle thieves. Leaving your pedal locked up, outside, overnight, is a sure slipway to allow both of these forces to wreck your pedal. If you leave your cycle parked outside every night (even if it’s in your back yard) it is only a matter of time before either mother nature, or some mother fucker destroys or steals your wheel. Store your motorcycle IN YOUR APARTMENT. I well-educated it’s small, I intentional you don’t like the three story walk up, trust me, it is worth it. Keep your cycle safe and sound IN YOUR HOME.
So that pretty often covers what to do with your bicycle at night, what approximately when you are out on the town. Two words, U-Interlock (is that two words?). That thin little cable interlock you got, that’s not a Boston mesh. That thick cable mesh you let, likewise not a Boston curl. You motive a U-engage, a thick hard to cut, hard to bend, metal shackle that bolts to your cycle with a cross bar and a lockup. Anything less and you are asking for trouble. Likewise remember if you ringlet up your front wheel to something (even with a u-curl) thieves only bear to remove the front wheel and so wickerwork run off with the rest of the cycle. The same goes for good the back wheel. If you wicker, slide the u-interlock through a wheel and the frame, and if you are really life-threatening some keeping all the parts of your bicycle get a cable lockup to thread through the wheel that isn’t locked up. Besides interlock to something STRONG, locking your big hefty u-curl to a piddly ass chain link fence kind of defeats the point. You wicker besides go to any local wheel shop and get the agile release levers (the things that let thieves easily steal your wheels) replaced with harder to remove bolts, the same goes for the recreate release seat post things (honestly who adjusts the seat height often adequate to required this?). You wicker likewise put your U-lockup in your back rightfulness pocket while equitation for instant street cred points.

Originally posted 2010-11-11 15:45:40. Republished by Blog Post Promoter